In the latest chapter of “In My Mind’s Eye,” I returned to Dubai in 2025, a year after my first visit. During that initial trip, I documented my experiences, although it wasn’t focused on cigars. This time around, I had the opportunity to delve deeper into Dubai and truly explore its vibrant cigar culture. My second visit allowed me to uncover much more of what this fascinating city has to offer.
I would like to personally thank Ra’ed Saqfelhait and Abdo Koudmani from Leaf Master Tobacco Trading Company for hosting me and taking me on a cigar crawl in Dubai. I learned a great deal from them, and we had a lot of fun along the way.
A Little Bit on Dubai
Located on the East Coast of the Arabian Peninsula, Dubai is now the most populous city in the United Arab Emirates (UAE). The UAE is a relatively new country, and Dubai has emerged only in the last 25 years as a major metropolis. The UAE was formed in 1971 out of the union of six Arab emirates.
Dubai was a small fishing village in the 19th century. Eventually, it became a regional trading hub by the early 20th century. In the last 25 years, Dubai has experienced incredible growth. As a part of this, growth has occurred in tourism and the luxury lifestyle.
The city also boasts a powerful financial hub known as the Dubai International Financial Center (DIFC). The DIFC goes hand-in-hand with the luxury lifestyle Dubai has become known for. This area is a free trade zone, and through incentives and levels of autonomy, this has allowed DIFC to become the power it has become in Dubai.
Dubai is a new country that is emerging as a hub for international growth, making it a true melting pot of cultures. While it remains fundamentally an Arabic country, the diverse mix of cultures is evident everywhere, particularly in its restaurants. The UAE government actively promotes tolerance through initiatives from the Ministry of Tolerance, aimed at ensuring harmony within this diverse society. This commitment to tolerance also plays a significant role in shaping the local cigar culture.
When I was in Rome in 2024, I noted how the city looked the same as it had when I visited nearly 29 years earlier. Dubai was the complete opposite, as I saw a ton of construction. In fact, some areas of Dubai I saw last year looked vastly different.
The Leaf Master Tobacco Trading LLC
Ra’ed and Abdo run a retail store located in the Hilton Dubai Al Habtoor City. In addition to their retail operations, they also import tobacco products and accessories. What is particularly interesting about Leaf Master is that it specializes in New World cigars, also known as Non-Cubans. This focus has enabled them to become the leading importer of these products in the GCC (Gulf Cooperation Council), which encompasses the Arabian Peninsula region.
Ra’ed and Abdo are actively involved with the Premium Cigar Association (PCA). Leaf Master’s New World model aligns well with the PCA’s focus in the United States, particularly in promoting the same types of cigars. Recently, they received a Best of Leaf award from the PCA for their retail store. Additionally, they played a significant role in the PCA’s partnership for the World Cigar Show.
Perhaps the most impressive thing about the Leaf Master guys was their commitment to education. Throughout the day, I saw them educating many of the outlets they supply in both product and hospitality. They were also ambassadors of the Dubai cigar scene for my visit, taking me on a crawl throughout the city with a focus on the DIFC zone. It was clear to me that the ambassador role is something Ra’ed and Abdo do every day.
Leaf Master Retail Store
Our first stop was the Lear Master retail store. It was not in the DIFC, but still relatively close.
The store very much had the feel of a U.S. retail store. I have traveled internationally numerous times and believe the extensive availability of walk-in humidors spoils us in the States. However, the Leaf Master store is in itself a walk-in humidor. I would put this humidor against some of the best ones in the U.S. When you see this store, it’s no surprise the Premium Cigar Association awarded Leaf Master a Best of Leaf award for 2025.
The brands included are well-known and beloved. If you enjoy a combination of both large and small brands, this humidor will definitely meet your expectations. Additionally, it features a selection of international brands and exclusive items from Leaf Master. However, you won’t find any Cuban cigars here, as Leaf Master focuses exclusively on non-Cuban products.
This store does not have a smoking lounge, but there are plenty of places where you can enjoy the cigars you pick up.
The Dubai Crawl
Il Pastaio
This was a lunch stop right near the Leaf Master retail store. If this place sounds familiar, it’s an extension of the famed Italian restaurant in Beverly Hills founded by Giacomino Drago. A restaurant like this in Dubai is indicative of this city’s melting pot culture and international growth.
There was one thing that set this location apart from the Beverly Hills location – not only can you smoke, but you can smoke indoors. Ra’ed told me that the tolerant nature of the UAE has made places like this possible.
Oh yeah, the food was terrific too!
Pair Cigar Lounge
We then headed to the DIFC, with our first stop being the Pair Cigar Lounge, located just outside the area at the Jumeirah Emirates Towers hotel. This lounge features a full walk-in humidor and provides an inviting space for cigar enthusiasts. Leaf Master supplies Pair with a selection of New World cigars.
Two things really stood out to me. First, this place had an ultra-modern feel to its lounge.
Second, while there was a good selection of New World cigars, there was an equally impressive collection of Cubans, including rarities. This was the first time I saw many of these in person.
Finally, I must mention a piece of art that caught my attention. This represented the cigar’s footer and fit very nicely in the ultra-modern lounge with classic cigars.
Churchill Club, Four Seasons DIFC
After a short walk, we arrived at the DIFC, with our first official stop being the Churchill Club at the Four Seasons Hotel. Located on the eighth floor of the hotel, this lounge epitomizes the luxury one expects from the Four Seasons.
With a name like Churchill, the ambiance has a distinctly London vibe. The design blends classic and contemporary elements seamlessly. The lounge features a cabinet humidor that offers both New World and Cuban cigars, with Leaf Master providing the New World selections.
It provided nice views of the downtown area. We hit Churchill’s mid-afternoon, so it wasn’t crowded. I’ve been told this place does get crowded at night.
1920 Cocktail Bar
1920 is located on the 52nd floor of the ICD Brookfield Place building in the DIFC. This property features both commercial and retail spaces. True to its name, 1920 captures the essence of the Roaring Twenties, complete with a Speakeasy and Prohibition-era New York vibe, highlighted by art deco decor and live music from that period. Additionally, this venue is another establishment where Leaf Master supplies cigars.
I had a spectacular view of the city and coastline from this location. The Leaf Master team took me here late in the day so I could enjoy the incredible sunset over Dubai. Although the humidor is smaller, this place primarily focuses on providing a great lounge experience.
There was also 1920s-style music there.
Peacock Alley Cigar Lounge at Waldorf Astoria DIFC
This lounge is located on the 18th floor of the Waldorf Astoria in the DIFC. It features a New York vibe, perhaps reminiscent of the 1960s. The lounge includes a small retail walk-in humidor offering a selection of both Cuban and New World cigars, the latter supplied by Leaf Master. Additionally, there is a fine collection of Louis XIII Cognac available.
The lounge had an intimate atmosphere and offered a stunning view of downtown Dubai, providing spectacular backdrops for enjoying a cigar.
Visiting the 1920 and the Peacock Alley lounges evokes a sense of nostalgia, particularly in light of recent developments in New York. These experiences highlight the significant impact of anti-smoking regulations on the social atmosphere of such venues. Reflecting on this, one might consider how different the ambiance and social interactions could have been prior to the implementation of these restrictions.
Jass Lounge
The crawl concluded at Jass. This place had a very different vibe from all of the other places we visited. It was more of a small, back-room (no panoramic views) place that was an authentic jazz club. The music was quite good too.
Ra’ed pointed out the hand-painted ceiling to me. It really added to the allure of this place.
Other Dubai Visits
Mercury Rooftop (Four Seasons)
This was a stop I made outside the tour I took with Leaf Master. Mercury Rooftop is located on top of the Four Seasons at Jumeirah Beach. It’s an outdoor bar/restaurant. It offers small plates and some main dishes, including a nice Tomahawk. You can also smoke there.
It offers spectacular views of the Gulf and downtown, including Burj Khalifa.
Burj Khalifa
The city’s skyline features the tallest building in the world, the Burj Khalifa. When visiting Dubai, it’s impossible not to notice this impressive structure. It looks spectacular from a distance, and during my visit, I had the opportunity to explore the observation decks.
Burj Khalifa has commercial and residential properties. Burj Khalifa is part of the Downtown Dubai development, a separate area near the DIFC but not within its boundaries. The DIFC is a free zone known for its financial institutions, while Downtown Dubai is a mixed-use development with residential, commercial, and leisure areas.
When you visit the observation decks, you can get a variety of different packages. The higher you want to go, the more expensive it is. Consistent with the Dubai experience, the higher-priced ones offer a more luxurious experience.
I splurged on the top-tier package, which ran about $200.00. It offered comfortable seating, snacks, and refreshments (alcoholic and non alcoholic). The views are spectacular, especially looking at Dubai from a 154-floor high (the VIP lounge photo and video were actually from the 153rd floor). The only thing that would have completed the experience would have been a cigar. I’ve been told that the At.mosphere, located on the 122nd floor, allows smoking, but I did not check it out.
Final Thoughts
As I mentioned earlier, I believe that anti-smoking factions have severely impacted the cigar culture in the U.S. My observations in Dubai made me reflect on what could have been. On the other hand, importing cigars into the UAE comes with a hefty price tag. There is a 100 percent excise tax on all imported cigars, which means you’ll ultimately pay much more than you would in other places. To put it simply, when comparing some of the high-end luxury shops in Dubai to prices in the U.S., you may find that cigars can cost three times as much or even more.or even more.
When PCA announced its partnership for the World Cigar Show last November, I felt optimistic about it. Earlier in 2024, I had visited Dubai and had a positive experience. Now, having immersed myself in the cigar culture and appreciating Dubai’s hospitality, I believe this will ultimately become a must-attend trade show. While it may take some time to reach that point, I genuinely think the sky’s the limit. Dubai is a must-visit destination for cigar enthusiasts living or traveling in the region.
Photo Credits: Cigar Coop, except where noted.
